Alta Verapaz
Is geologically and climatically very different from the rest of Guatemala. Year-round moisture bathes the region in a perpetual emerald glow. The thick and lush vegetation sparkles with dew, and delicate moss covers rocks and tree bark. The unique weather is embedded in the name of its capital, Cobán: in Kekchí, “cob” means “place of the clouds.”
Alta Verapaz is a land defined by water. Several of Guatemala’s major rivers are born here. As wet as it is on the surface, it’s what goes on beneath that’s so remarkable. Cutting through the limestone runs a great subterranean water system. Rushing rivers suddenly disappear into holes in the ground to reappear miles downstream, and echoing in the depths of many a cave can be heard the rush of a river.
Cobán
Off the beaten tourist track, Cobán provides a wonderful eye to rural townships in Guatemala. Sites to see include the charming market, cemetery, the church on the square (perhaps the oldest in the country) and an exquisite and tiny archaeology museum. Access is easily arranged to private sellers of Cobán’s famous shadow weavings and silver necklaces. The Cobán area has the largest concentration of orchids in the country due to the combination of altitude and high humidity year round give. A magnificent orchid farm should have much in bloom.
Candelaria River and Cave System
The Candelaria system was the entrance for the ancient Maya to Xibalbá, the terrifying underground where their gods lived. The natural limestone configurations inside the caves clearly inspired the phantasmagoric Maya iconography. Still visible are original Maya graffiti and a ladder carved into a sheer rock leading to the launch area. The cave system is currently under study by Brett Woodfill from Vanderbilt as part of the Cancuén Project.
The trip is spectacular from both the natural and archeological viewpoints. You can explore the cave underground through caverns lit by “windows” high above in the ceiling either by foot or in specially equipped small boats designed for cave rafting.
The lodge at Candelaria is a simple and charming jungle affair, owned and run by French speleologist Daniel Dreux, who first mapped the caves in 1974.
Gucumatz was truly a marvelous king. For seven days he mounted to the skies and for seven days he went down into Xibalbá; seven days he changed himself into a snake and really become a serpent; for seven days he changed himself into an eagle; for seven days he became a jaguar; and his appearance was really that of an eagle and a jaguar. Another seven days he changed himself into clotted blood and was only motionless blood. The nature of this king was really marvelous and all the other lords were filled with terror before him. Tidings of the wonderful nature of the King were spread and all the lords of the towns heard it. And this was the beginning of the grandeur of the K’iche’, when Gucumatz gave these signs of his power.
Popol Vuh, The Sacred Book of the Ancient Quiché Maya
Cancuén, Petén
Maya archaeology has revved up recently with finds that are bringing forth new information and spectacular “stuff.” The archaeological site of Cancuén is just across the Pasión River from Alta Verapaz on the southern border of Petén. Cancuén is under excavation by Vanderbilt University and the charismatic archeologist Arthur Demerest, whose work at the site of Dos Pilas in the 90s redefined the discussion of the Maya collapse.
Excavations show that Cancuén was the ancient Maya customs port to the riverine trading system in the tropical jungle region of Petén. By controlling entry of raw materials from the highlands, Cancuén was a major political and economic player in trade and war. In 2005, excavations had to be extended when, outside the entrance to the royal palace, a mass grave was uncovered. It contained the remains—men, women and children—of the royal family of Cancuén whose rule had met a Romanov ending.
The small site is a 45 minute drive from Candelaria to the tiny outpost village of Raxruhá and a 45-minute boat ride down river.
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